After a lot of fog induced misery down the US coast we pondered completing the final leg of our 9 month cycle tour by train. Philippa came up with lots of good reasons why that would’ve been a sensible decision and yet it wouldn’t have seemed like a fitting end to our tour and so after receiving an encouraging email from a Brit who’d cycled to LA a few weeks earlier we opted to carry on by bike. Before we left San Luis Obispo we had lunch with Neil and Ali, who luckily were also in town on their road trip. We won’t see them again on this tour, but it gives us another set of friends to visit in the Brisbane / Gold Coast area. Continue reading
We left Bayside on Friday morning for what would probably be our last cycling day in excess of 90km (and actually probably 80km) of this tour! As seems to have become the norm, we set off in grey and cold cloud and this was how we spent the rest of the morning. As we had been hosted in Bayside we were already on the Old Arcata Road which we continued to follow all the way to Eureka. This was a good, quiet road with a mostly large shoulder and avoided some of Highway 101.
On Monday it was our last full day in Oregon, and only because we were having a day off in Brookings. Being a rest day we had a leisurely breakfast, a lazy morning, a slow amble into town and some beer tasting at Chetco Brewing which we stumbled upon before ending the day with a roaring campfire. There were a lot of other cyclists at the Harris Beach State Park all heading south and as we’d heard the next campsite (Mill Creek in Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park) had a small hiker/biker area we were away nice and early. Pretty quickly we were in California, our third and final state in our fourth and final country on our nine-month cycle trip. Continue reading
After getting unexpectedly well fed at Sunset Bay we crawled into the tent and then proceeded to devour the enormous cinnamon bun we had purchased earlier in the day. It was probably enough for six people, or as we found out, two cold and hungry cyclists. I went to bed wearing most of my clothes and waited for sleep to arrive or my feet to defrost, whichever came sooner; sleep I think. Continue reading
South Beach, where we were on Monday night, was a bit odd because there was a group of “transient” people staying there who were clearly not hikers or bikers, but possibly homeless people. We’ve seen similar people trying to hitchhike along the highway and it’s likely that’s how these guys were travelling. We’re aware there’s a huge wealth gap in the USA, but we weren’t expecting it to be evident on the hiker/biker campsites in the State Parks. The cyclists kept to themselves and the transient people kept to themselves and it was all OK, although it was a different atmosphere to the other hiker/biker sites we’ve used. Continue reading
We are covering fairly short distances each day down the Oregon coast so that we don’t get to LA too quickly and so after four more days on the road we still aren’t even half way down the Oregon coast! Instead, we are taking our time, stopping for beer and viewpoints, where we have been lucky enough to see whales. It is getting less grey each day, but despite being summer it is still pretty chilly from the wind. Each night we’ve needed a campfire to keep us toasty and I’ve been cycling in kit that I would probably only need for spring mornings in the UK, despite being much further south (about equivalent to Bordeaux in France). I’m guessing that in about two weeks I will be bemoaning the heat; there’s always something…. Continue reading
Yesterday (Wednesday 27th July) we left grey cloudy Washington State and entered grey cloudy Oregon. Since leaving behind the Cascades we’ve had grey weather interspersed with the odd sunny day. We’re now going to follow the Oregon coast into California border, which is about eight or nine days of riding. Everyone has said the Oregon coast is amazing, but we’ve been not inspired by the 35km we’ve ridden so far. Hopefully things will improve. Continue reading
I’d suggest reading the condensed version of this blog post rather than the full version as it’s unlikely to be very interesting. It certainly hasn’t been very interesting cycling over the past few days, evident by the lack of photographs we’ve taken. So, the short version: we left Deception Pass last Thursday (21st July) rode along a busy section of Highway 20 and took the ferry to pretty Port Townsend where we ate burgers in the sun, followed by cider tasting & two nights with Phil and Emmy Lou who hosted us in Chimacum. On Saturday it rained from Chimacum to Quilcene, then it was just grey along the Hood Canal to Potlach State Park. Monday, grey turning to blue as we rode through forest plantations to Lake Sylvia State Park via some very long straight dull roads. We went swimming in Lake Sylvia. Monday it was grey, again, and we cycled to Brucepoint Park via McDonalds in Raymond (a nondescript lumber town) to get some WiFi. We spent the evening chatting to other cyclists. Today (Tuesday) it’s been another nondescript day with grey skies and marshy coastline, probably the dullest day we’ve ridden in over six months on tour. So dull that we dug out our iPods for some musical entertainment. We’re now at Cape Disappointment, an apt name considering how disappointed we are with the cycling since leaving Chimacum. Continue reading