Oregon saves the best for last

089. View from Arch Rock look outAfter getting unexpectedly well fed at Sunset Bay we crawled into the tent and then proceeded to devour the enormous cinnamon bun we had purchased earlier in the day. It was probably enough for six people, or as we found out, two cold and hungry cyclists. I went to bed wearing most of my clothes and waited for sleep to arrive or my feet to defrost, whichever came sooner; sleep I think.

We awoke to more of the same greyness and I donned four layers for the road ahead (merino base layer, cycling jersey, gilet and waterproof), along with full fingered gloves and a buff on my head; I’ve worn less on overnight rides. Thankfully our route would take us over the Seven Devils Road which involved a number of climbs, allowing us to warm up a little. The sun also started coming out and we started thawing out.

Katie, a cyclist from London who it turns out I recognised from some of the Shaftesbury CC audax rides when I first spotted her back at Jessie M. Honeyman State Park, overtook us on the way up one of the hills and we waved her off and wished her luck with her faster trip to San Francisco.

After warming up and ditching some layers we arrived in Bandon and had a few hours to burn until we could arrive at our WarmShowers host for the evening. So we ate some fish tacos at Tony’s, sat outside a supermarket drying the tent off and stealing the WiFi and tried to absorb as much of the sunshine as we could. We pottered down to our WarmShowers host six miles south of Bandon, stopping at viewpoints along the way and taking it easy. We spotted a cyclist coming towards us and it was Katie! What? She had unfortunately hit a pothole and her handlebar bag had snapped off, so she was heading back to the bike shop at Bandon to see if they could help. Katie – we hope you’re OK and got everything sorted and kept to your schedule!

We spent a fabulous Friday evening with Suzy and Ed at their beautiful house and left with more food than we started with after Suzy insisted on giving us a much as we could carry – thanks so much! Despite eating a hearty breakfast at Suzy’s we stopped 8 miles down the road at Langlois at Spoons to have a second breakfast and my first proper BACON since arriving in the USA. My god it was good.

The ride from there down to Humbug Mountain State Park on Saturday was stunning; this part of the coastline has been the best of the whole Oregon coast. The road is in a decent state with a big shoulder most of the way which made the riding easy. The tailwind also helped and before too long we were at Humbug Mountain; I hardly felt like I had had to cycle to get there. The hiker/biker sites were lovely and we went for a walk and picked a load of blackberries to stew up to have for breakfast. That evening we discovered that not only could we reheat cold pizza on a campfire, but we also successfully cooked garlic bread and sweetcorn over the fire. Such simple, oven baked food, that would be pretty ordinary back home felt like a real treat. If only we’d thought about this sooner!

On Sunday we had our last full day of cycling in Oregon, with 80km (50 miles) down to Harris Beach State Park. We had heard lots of good things about this last state park in Oregon so planned to have a rest day here. The ride felt a lot harder than the previous day’s, with a lot more climbing and not a lot of tailwind. It was sunny, which was good and the scenery was just fabulous. Having now pretty much completed the Oregon coast I can see why everyone raves about it; the last bit is by far the most spectacular and memories of falling off and dangerous bridges are but a distant memory, erased by the beauty of the coastline.

To BandonTo HumbugTo Harris





3 thoughts on “Oregon saves the best for last

  1. Genuinely happy! Not least cause I was beginning to think I’d imagined how good Oregon was. but then again I was of the view those tunnels from earlier weren’t frightening but more like fun sprint sessions that you popped out feeling happy to have got out of alive.
    Redwood country up next. Enjoy that shrinking feeling. And, don’t know what the plans are past Eureka/Ferndale but fwiw I’m still very tempted to get back there and check out the Lost Coast/Mattole road that I had to skip due to a v nasty case of food poisoning when I was there. It looked and sounded very very cool

    Liked by 1 person

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