Yesterday (Wednesday 27th July) we left grey cloudy Washington State and entered grey cloudy Oregon. Since leaving behind the Cascades we’ve had grey weather interspersed with the odd sunny day. We’re now going to follow the Oregon coast into California border, which is about eight or nine days of riding. Everyone has said the Oregon coast is amazing, but we’ve been not inspired by the 35km we’ve ridden so far. Hopefully things will improve.
From Cape Disappointment we had to cross the Colombia River, which is the same river that we saw the start of at Canal Flats in Canada. The Astoria–Megler Bridge is massive. Its over 6½km long, with a 65m climb near the end. There’s one lane of traffic travelling each way and a narrow, too narrow, shoulder where seagulls go to die. Whenever possible cars would give us room, but when there were vehicles coming towards us this wasn’t possible. We got shouted at by one irate passenger, although it was just a muffled noise as they sped past. We were glad to survive and get into Astoria.
There are lots of breweries in Astoria and as we’d arrived at midday we decided it was beer o’clock and went to Wet Dog Cafe for lunch, which was great and the sun came out so we set off to Seaside feeling a bit warmer. The 30km ride to Seaside was a bit nondescript along a busy road with no real views of which to speak. We spied a parallel road at one point, only to discover it was a gated community. Someone kindly opened the gate for us and it turned out this 5½km illegal section was the best part of the day as the road was empty and we could admire all the fancy houses. As we approached Seaside the sun vanished to be replaced by more grey, but at least we had a Warm Showers host. Neil wasn’t actually around and yet we were granted access to his house. We had a peaceful evening and now have clean clothes and a dry tent, not that it’ll stay dry for long.
Today we’re heading to the campsite at Nehalem Bay State Park on the recommendation of a State Ranger from Washington. The ride along the Oregon coast has to improve because we’ve heard so many good things from other cyclists, it’d just be nice if the grey weather (what I’d describe as “soft”) vanished and we had some blue skies.